PARIS (AP) — At Miu Miu, the little sister brand of Miuccia Prada, the feminine wasn’t just celebrated — it was deconstructed, reconfigured and worn with a wink. The starry Paris Fashion Week collection on Tuesday took the very idea of womanhood and turned it into a conversation starter, one silk-knit bias cut at a time.

With that, the timing of Prada’s bullet bra makes sense. While the name sounds violent (another descriptor for the design is the “torpedo bra”), the name came from the shape the bias-cut bra molded the breast into—though, ironically, the design was also popular during World War I and II.

Miu Miu went very Mad Men, mixing workwear looks with ‘just got home from a night out’ vibes, while at Chanel, bows were very big news. It’s been a pretty eclectic Paris Fashion Week (March 3-11). We’ve had Victoria Beckham turn a dressing gown into a dreamily draped top,